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Franco Lorenzon

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  • numeroventuno_zipmagazine
  • numeroventuno_zipmagazine
  • numeroventuno_zipmagazine

    N21 - OUT OF SCALE

    22 February 2021

    By Franco Lorenzon @nonsololook

    Provoking the birth of a new and alternative point of view. To move away from the constriction of the rule and cancel the compulsory canons. To give clothes the chance to express themselves for the meaning they have but without overpowering the will of the wearer. Constructing an eccentric silhouette, that is, outside the central vision of control, using the usual, known, customary shapes. N21's collection uses the "out-of-scale" design method to signal a new feminine path. Free, more autonomous, more surprising. Emphasizing differences and proposing new cohabitations. 

    Alessandro Dell'Acqua, creative director of N21: "I started from a striped men's shirt of which I kept the shape and size. On it I drew a female figure that cannot stand clichés, rules, imposed sizes, but mixes them, chooses them, upsets them. I thought of a woman who lives by adopting a very personal point of view and I used the off-scale, which is a method that allows you to displace the references, to put together a collection that is composed through elements that appear discordant. I liked the idea of accentuating and underlining the differences to succeed in composing surprising and often improbable cohabitations. The guiding idea was a woman who does not allow social roles to crush her into stereotypes and who, by mixing different proportions and aspects, manages to better live her own attitudes". 

    2010 – 2020. N21 turned ten years old. Without nostalgia or self-celebration, the story of N21's first decade contributes to the creation of this collection in which the creative paths that have shaped it are recognizable. The lace dress, the macramé work, the masculine/feminine style, the punk. A creative path remixed without any nostalgic element. The story unfolds through symptoms of recognizability while composing out-of-scale figures that allow to displace references. 

    The collection. A shirt in men's size stripes to wear with everything, to wear everywhere and in every occasion: under a wide shirt in transparent chiffon that ends in a large border of ostrich feathers, for example. And then jackets, coats in cloth with macramé bottoms, skirts, shirts: all with applications of safety pins that form corollas of flowers. And coats that look like shirts enlarged, chains that become straps of sexy dresses with sweetheart necklines or hold the drapes of those in holographic micro sequins, tight-fitting bouclé dresses, coats in leather-lined fake fur, transparent lace dresses with oversized sleeves, cardigans worked with felted fur stitch and with large feather edges as well as voluminous tops in ostrich and grouse feathers.

    Accessories. Sandals and high-heeled shoes with chain details. The large buckle on the new Daft Bag, the medium-sized leather shoulder bag that brings together all the outsized aspirations of the collection, is also a piece of chain. 



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